UH press has a story about a new book entitled “ Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing“ It should make for an interesting read.
Up to this point my favorite surfing history book is an old book from 1966 that I found on sale at the Honolulu library for $0.50. It’s called “Surf’s Up”, H Arthur Klein. It’s long out of print, so consider yourself lucky if you should happen to run across a copy.